On the 8th
September, 1915, six months after the sacrifice of thousands of Australian
troops on the cliffs and beaches of Gallipoli, Ethel embarked on a three day
train journey through ugly scenery, furious dust storms and shifting sands. Her
Journal contained no exaggerated account by a naïve outsider, since the trip
did indeed become momentous. The shifting sand caused a derailment that was
documented in The Adelaide Advertiser
of Tuesday 14th September thus:
The ordinary mixed train from Quorn to
Oodnadatta met with an accident 42 miles south of Oodnadatta on Friday at 9.30
pm. The accident was caused through the train running into a cutting on the
line, which was partly filled with drift sand. The engine, a couple of water
tanks, and a goods truck were considerably damaged. All the passengers escaped
injury, but the engine driver (Mr George Moran) was slightly injured. An
“accident” train left Quorn on Saturday morning to remove the derailed engine
and trucks and repair the line.
Although the
above confirms the accident that Ethel recorded in her Journal, I prefer her
more subjective narration with its confused passengers, both white and
aboriginal; the concussed engine driver, Mr Moran; the resourceful guard who
fixed up a telegraph link; and the dawn brew-up in billy cans. They were
stranded in a red stony desert dotted with intermittent mulga bushes and tussocks
of spinifex grass. Temperatures could approach 50°C. Rainfall here was measured
in drops, and any creek water was saline. And, since the accident occurred at
9.30 pm, they would have found themselves in utter darkness. A Wikipedia
article tells us that:
The Ghan service was notorious
for washouts of the track and other delays, and a flatcar immediately behind the
locomotive carried spare sleepers and railway tools, so that if a washout was
encountered the passengers and crew could work as a railway gang to repair the
line and permit the train to continue.
All in all, if Ethel had been seeking a distraction from
her guilt about the war, she had certainly found it in the South Australian
desert. The Advertiser continues its accident
report:
The Secretary to the Railways Commissioner
(Mr A.N. Day) stated on Monday afternoon that the passengers were taken by the
repairing section car to Oodnadatta, where they arrived on Saturday evening
instead of late on Friday night. In order to get a train to Oodnadatta it was
necessary to send a relief engine from William Creek
to the scene of the accident and construct a deviation round the derailed
engine and trucks.
Again, Ethel’s
account is more vivid as she enthusiastically describes their eventual arrival
in Oodnadatta “without hat or anything for ones use” on Saturday, 11th
September. Furthermore, “as we were pulled into the station of Oodnadatta, the
dwellers there greeted us with ‘Cheers’”! The following image actually shows
the Ghan steaming in to Oodnadatta in about 1910.
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